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Beyond the Carved Faces: Unearthing the Native American Heart of the Black Hills near Mount Rushmore
Mount Rushmore, a colossal monument carved into the sacred Black Hills of South Dakota, stands as an iconic symbol of American ambition and ingenuity. Yet, beneath the gaze of four presidents, lies a much older, deeper, and often contested history – one intimately tied to the Native American nations who have called this land home for millennia. For any traveler or history enthusiast, understanding the map of Native American tribes in this region is not merely an academic exercise; it’s an essential journey into the soul of a land imbued with spiritual significance, resilience, and an ongoing struggle for justice and identity. This article delves into the rich tapestry of these indigenous peoples, primarily the Lakota, whose story is intrinsically woven into the very fabric of the Black Hills.
The Sacred Heart: Paha Sapa and the Lakota Nation

The area encompassing Mount Rushmore, known to the Lakota as Paha Sapa (The Hills That Are Black), is far more than just a geological feature. It is a sacred landscape, a living entity central to their creation stories, spiritual practices, and cultural identity. For the Lakota, the Black Hills are their church, their university, and their ancestral home, a place of immense power and profound spiritual connection where the earth breathes and the spirits dwell.
The Lakota are one of the three major dialect groups of the Great Sioux Nation, alongside the Dakota and Nakota. While all share a common cultural heritage, the Lakota historically occupied the westernmost territories, extending into the plains of what is now South Dakota, North Dakota, Nebraska, Wyoming, and Montana. Within the Lakota, there are seven sub-bands, often referred to as the "Seven Council Fires": Oglala, Sicangu (Brulé), Hunkpapa, Miniconjou, Sihasapa (Blackfeet Lakota), Oohenumpa (Two Kettles), and Itazipco (Sans Arcs). Near Mount Rushmore, the Oglala Lakota are particularly prominent, with their Pine Ridge Reservation located just south of the Black Hills. Other Lakota bands, such as the Sicangu (Rosebud Reservation), also hold deep historical ties to the region.
A Land Claimed: Pre-Contact and Early European Encounters
Long before the Lakota ascended to dominance, other indigenous groups inhabited the Black Hills. Archaeological evidence suggests human presence in the region for over 10,000 years. Tribes like the Cheyenne, Crow, Kiowa, and Arapaho all have historical connections to the area, either residing there or using it for hunting and ceremonies. However, by the mid-18th century, the Lakota, having migrated west from the Great Lakes region and mastered horsemanship, had established themselves as the dominant power, asserting their claim over Paha Sapa.

Their traditional life revolved around the buffalo, which provided sustenance, shelter, clothing, and tools. Their societies were complex, with intricate kinship systems, spiritual leaders, and renowned warriors. The arrival of European traders brought new goods like firearms and metal tools, but also disease and increasing pressures that would ultimately lead to conflict.
Treaties Made, Treaties Broken: The Legal Basis of Lakota Land Claims
The story of Native American tribes near Mount Rushmore cannot be told without understanding the pivotal treaties that defined their relationship with the United States government – and the subsequent violations that led to enduring injustice.
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Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851: This treaty, signed by the U.S. government and several Plains tribes including the Lakota, Cheyenne, and Arapaho, attempted to establish boundaries for tribal lands and ensure safe passage for settlers along the Oregon Trail. It recognized vast territories for the Lakota, encompassing much of present-day South Dakota and parts of Nebraska, Wyoming, and Montana. Crucially, it acknowledged the Black Hills as part of their territory.
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Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868: This treaty is the cornerstone of the Lakota’s legal claims to the Black Hills. Signed after Red Cloud’s War, a successful campaign by Lakota, Cheyenne, and Arapaho warriors against U.S. military forts, it was a victory for the tribes. The treaty established the "Great Sioux Reservation," a massive tract of land that included all of western South Dakota, including the Black Hills, and parts of Nebraska. Article II of the treaty explicitly stated that this territory was "set apart for the absolute and undisturbed use and occupation of the Sioux Nation," and that no white person "shall be permitted to settle upon or occupy any portion of the same; or, without the consent of the Indians, to pass through the same." The Black Hills were deemed "unceded Indian territory."
This treaty was meant to be permanent. Yet, its ink was barely dry when its provisions were flagrantly violated.
The Gold Rush and the Great Sioux War: The Theft of Paha Sapa
The fateful turning point came in 1874 when General George Armstrong Custer led a U.S. Army expedition into the Black Hills, ostensibly to survey the land. Custer’s reports, widely publicized, confirmed the presence of gold. This sparked an immediate and unstoppable gold rush, with thousands of prospectors pouring into the Black Hills, directly violating the 1868 treaty.
The U.S. government initially attempted to purchase the Black Hills from the Lakota, but they steadfastly refused to sell their sacred land. Faced with the unstoppable influx of miners and settlers, the government issued an ultimatum: move to reservations or be considered hostile. This led to the Great Sioux War of 1876-77, a series of conflicts that included the famous Battle of Little Bighorn (Greasy Grass), where a coalition of Lakota, Cheyenne, and Arapaho warriors decisively defeated Custer’s 7th Cavalry.
Despite this victory, the sheer military and demographic might of the United States proved overwhelming. By 1877, the U.S. Congress unilaterally passed an act that stripped the Lakota of the Black Hills, forcing them onto much smaller reservations. This act, known as the "sell or starve" bill, was never agreed to by the required three-fourths of adult male Lakota as stipulated by the 1868 treaty, rendering it illegal in the eyes of the Lakota and later, the U.S. Supreme Court.
The Reservation Era and the Scars of Wounded Knee
The forced relocation onto reservations marked a drastic shift in the Lakota way of life. Nomadic buffalo hunters were confined to limited tracts of land, dependent on government rations, and subjected to aggressive assimilation policies. The late 19th century was a period of immense suffering, culminating in the tragic Wounded Knee Massacre of 1890 on the Pine Ridge Reservation, where hundreds of unarmed Lakota men, women, and children were killed by the U.S. Army. This event is widely regarded as the symbolic end of the Indian Wars and left a deep, unhealing wound in the collective memory of the Lakota people.
For decades, government policies aimed to eradicate Native American cultures: children were forcibly removed to boarding schools, where their languages were forbidden and their traditions suppressed; traditional spiritual practices were outlawed; and the Dawes Act sought to break up communal lands into individual allotments, further eroding tribal sovereignty and economic self-sufficiency.
Modern Identity: Resilience, Sovereignty, and the Unfinished Fight
Despite generations of systemic oppression, the Native American tribes near Mount Rushmore, particularly the Lakota, have shown remarkable resilience. Their identity, rooted in their spiritual connection to the land and their ancestral ways, has endured and is experiencing a powerful revitalization.
The Black Hills Land Claim: The illegal seizure of the Black Hills has never been forgotten. In 1980, the U.S. Supreme Court, in United States v. Sioux Nation of Indians, ruled that the Black Hills had been taken unlawfully and awarded compensation of over $100 million (which has since grown to over $1 billion with interest). However, the Lakota Nation, along with other Sioux tribes, has consistently refused to accept the money, reiterating their demand for the return of the land itself. For them, the Black Hills are not for sale. This steadfast refusal is a testament to their deep spiritual connection and their unwavering commitment to justice.
Sovereignty and Self-Determination: Today, the Oglala Lakota, Sicangu Lakota, and other tribal nations operate as sovereign governments, working to rebuild their communities, revitalize their languages (Lakota, Dakota), and strengthen their cultural practices. Tribal colleges, cultural centers, and language immersion programs are fostering a new generation connected to their heritage. Economic development initiatives, though often challenged by historical poverty and lack of resources, are striving for self-sufficiency.
Mount Rushmore as a Symbol of Contention: For many Native Americans, Mount Rushmore remains a painful symbol of invasion and broken promises. Its location within their sacred Black Hills, and its depiction of presidents often associated with policies harmful to indigenous peoples, makes it a focal point for protests and calls for greater recognition of Native American history and rights. The annual "Yellow Thunder Camp" and the ongoing work at the nearby Crazy Horse Memorial (a response to Rushmore, carved by a Lakota-invited sculptor) serve as powerful reminders of this contested narrative.
Engaging Respectfully: A Traveler’s Guide
For visitors to the Mount Rushmore region, understanding this complex history is crucial for a meaningful experience. Instead of simply seeing a monument, one can begin to see a living landscape with a profound past and present.
- Visit Tribal Cultural Centers: Explore places like the Crazy Horse Memorial (still under construction but offering a cultural center and museum), the Heritage Center at Red Cloud Indian School on Pine Ridge Reservation, or local tribal museums. These offer invaluable perspectives directly from the indigenous communities.
- Support Native Businesses: Look for opportunities to purchase authentic Native American arts, crafts, and goods directly from tribal members.
- Learn Beyond the Monument: Educate yourself on the treaties, the history of the gold rush, and the ongoing land claims. Understanding these narratives offers a more complete and honest picture.
- Respect Sacred Sites: If you venture into areas known to be sacred, do so with reverence and respect. Follow any posted guidelines or seek local advice.
- Acknowledge Ongoing Presence: Recognize that Native American tribes are not relics of the past but vibrant, living communities actively shaping their futures.
Conclusion: A Living History
The map of Native American tribes near Mount Rushmore is not static; it is a dynamic testament to survival, resistance, and enduring identity. The majestic faces carved into the Black Hills tell one story of America, but the land itself, and the people who have safeguarded its spirit for generations, tell another – one of deep spiritual connection, broken treaties, profound suffering, and an unyielding quest for justice and cultural continuity. To truly understand this iconic American landscape is to look beyond the stone and listen to the echoes of Paha Sapa, hearing the living history of the Lakota and other Native American nations who continue to protect and define it. Their story is not just history; it is a vital, ongoing chapter in the heart of America.
