Bears Ears National Monument: A Living Map of Stewardship and Struggle
Bears Ears National Monument in southeastern Utah is not merely a landscape of breathtaking mesas, dramatic canyons, and ancient cliff dwellings. It is a profound, layered map—a testament to millennia of Indigenous stewardship, a battleground for modern resource exploitation, and a critical destination for understanding the complex relationship between land, culture, and sovereignty. For the discerning traveler, Bears Ears offers an unparalleled opportunity to journey through deep time, walk in the footsteps of ancestors, and confront the ongoing legacy of natural resource extraction through the lens of those who have always called this land home.
The Landscape as a Sacred Atlas
Imagine standing atop a crimson mesa, the twin peaks of Bears Ears (Shash Jáa in Navajo, Kwiyagatu Nukav in Ute) rising majestically on the horizon. Below, a labyrinth of canyons unfurls, revealing hidden alcoves, verdant riparian zones, and the ghostly remnants of ancestral Puebloan homes etched into sandstone cliffs. This isn’t just picturesque scenery; for the Ute Mountain Ute, Navajo, Hopi, Zuni, and other tribal nations, this entire region is a sacred atlas. Their "maps" are not just lines on parchment, but an intricate web of oral histories, ceremonial sites, traditional travel routes, gathering areas for medicinal plants, and hunting grounds—all interwoven with a profound spiritual connection to every rock, river, and ancient dwelling.
Unlike colonial maps designed to delineate ownership for extraction, Indigenous maps are relational. They describe relationships between people, places, and resources, emphasizing reciprocity and sustainability. The natural resources within Bears Ears—its water sources, abundant pinyon nuts, juniper berries, deer, elk, and the very minerals within its earth—were traditionally understood as part of a living system, to be used respectfully and sustained for future generations. This traditional ecological knowledge (TEK) served as a sophisticated resource management system, ensuring the long-term health of the land and its inhabitants. Every petroglyph panel, every grinding stone, every ceremonial kiva tells a story, acting as a historical marker and a guidepost within this living map, detailing how resources were accessed, utilized, and revered.
The Scars of Exploitation: A Modern Overlap of Maps
The beauty of Bears Ears is tragically juxtaposed with its history as a target for natural resource exploitation. Beneath its stunning surface lie valuable deposits of uranium, oil, gas, and potash. For over a century, these resources have drawn prospectors and corporations, eager to extract wealth from Indigenous lands, often with devastating environmental and cultural consequences.
This is where the clash of "maps" becomes starkly evident. Where Indigenous maps delineate sacred sites and traditional gathering areas, colonial and industrial maps highlight geological formations rich in extractable minerals. The history of uranium mining in the Four Corners region, particularly during the Cold War, is a dark chapter. Mines were dug without adequate environmental safeguards, leaving behind toxic tailings and contaminating water sources, impacting the health of Navajo and other Indigenous communities who lived and worked near these sites. Oil and gas exploration, though less widespread within the monument’s current boundaries, has also left its mark, with seismic testing, well pads, and access roads fragmenting landscapes and disturbing sensitive cultural sites.
The creation of Bears Ears National Monument in 2016 by President Obama was a direct response to this history, driven by an unprecedented coalition of five tribal nations (the Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition). Their proposal for the monument was not just about conservation; it was about protecting their cultural heritage, their ancestral lands, and their right to co-manage the resources that define their identity. Their "map" for the monument emphasized the cultural landscape, the sacred sites, and the continuity of their traditions—a stark contrast to the industry maps that saw only mineral deposits.
However, the struggle did not end there. In 2017, President Trump drastically reduced the monument’s size by 85%, opening vast areas to potential mining and drilling, citing a need to "reverse federal overreach." This decision was a profound blow to the tribal nations, who viewed it as a direct assault on their sovereignty and their sacred lands. It underscored the persistent power dynamics where economic interests often override cultural preservation and Indigenous rights. President Biden’s subsequent reinstatement of the monument’s original boundaries in 2021 was a victory, but the underlying tension remains, a constant reminder of the vulnerability of these lands to future political shifts and resource demands.
Navigating Bears Ears: A Journey of Awareness
For the modern traveler, visiting Bears Ears is more than a scenic vacation; it’s an immersive lesson in history, ecology, and cultural resilience. To truly understand this place, you must approach it with an open mind and a respectful heart, recognizing that you are treading on living history.
What to See and Do (Respectfully):
- Ancestral Puebloan Sites: Explore sites like Mule Canyon Kiva, House on Fire, or Butler Wash Ruin. These are not mere ruins; they are ancestral homes, sacred spaces, and tangible evidence of millennia of human presence. Remember to practice Leave No Trace principles rigorously, staying on marked trails, not touching artifacts, and never entering fragile structures. These sites are the physical markers of the Indigenous map, guiding us to understand ancient lifeways and resource management.
- Hiking and Backpacking: The monument offers endless opportunities for exploration, from easy day hikes to multi-day backpacking trips into remote canyons. As you hike, observe the flora and fauna, the water sources, and the geological formations. Try to imagine how Indigenous peoples would have navigated and utilized these resources. Every spring, every pinyon grove, every game trail was once part of their detailed mental and oral maps.
- Stargazing: Bears Ears boasts some of the darkest night skies in the contiguous United States. Lie back and gaze at the Milky Way. For Indigenous cultures, the stars were also a map, guiding travel, marking seasons for resource gathering, and holding sacred stories.
- Visit the Bears Ears Education Center (Bluff, UT): While not within the monument boundaries, this center (or similar tribal interpretive centers in the region) provides crucial context. It offers insights into the cultural significance of the monument, the history of the tribes, and the ongoing efforts to protect the land. This is where you can learn directly about the Indigenous perspective on land management and the concept of their "maps."
- Engage with Local Tribal Communities (where appropriate): If opportunities arise through guided tours or community events, engaging with local tribal members can offer invaluable insights into their connection to the land and their vision for its future. This direct interaction helps decolonize the narrative of the landscape.
Beyond the Tourist Gaze: Ethical Engagement
Your visit to Bears Ears should be an act of solidarity. Understand that the land is not just a backdrop for your adventure; it is a vital, living entity for Indigenous peoples.
- Educate Yourself: Before you go, research the history of the Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition, the specific tribes connected to the land, and the political struggles surrounding the monument. Resources from the Coalition, Utah Diné Bikéyah, and other tribal organizations are excellent starting points.
- Support Indigenous-led Initiatives: Seek out and support Indigenous-owned businesses and cultural programs in the surrounding communities.
- Advocate for Protection: Understand that the fight for Bears Ears is ongoing. Your awareness and voice can contribute to its long-term protection.
- See the Land Differently: Try to perceive the landscape not just through a Western lens of recreation or resource potential, but through the Indigenous lens of a sacred, interconnected whole. Recognize the wisdom inherent in their traditional maps—maps that prioritize sustainability and cultural continuity over short-term exploitation.
Conclusion: A Call to Deeper Understanding
Bears Ears National Monument is more than a reviewable travel destination; it is a profound classroom. It is a place where the grandeur of nature meets the stark realities of history, where ancient maps of sustainable living confront modern maps of extraction. To travel here is to bear witness to both the enduring beauty of the land and the resilience of its original caretakers. It challenges us to reconsider our own relationship with natural resources, to question who truly owns the land, and to learn from the wisdom of those who have always understood that the earth is not just a commodity, but a living, sacred entity deserving of our deepest respect and protection. Visit Bears Ears, and let its layered landscapes remap your understanding of the world.
